By Emily Weinstein, The New York Times
It was shades of April 2020 for me when I went to the market a week ago, just before the big snowstorm that hit the Northeast, and found that all-purpose flour was nearly sold out. While I’ve seen supply-chain issues playing out on grocery store shelves, as I think we all have, the lack of flour really brought me back. “CARBS!” I thought — perfect for a storm or really anytime you’re hunkering down.
To me, a snowstorm means chili. And roast chicken. And pancakes. Oh and hot chocolate. And possibly brownies — hence the flour.
1. Rosemary-Paprika Chicken and Fries
This sheet-pan chicken dinner was inspired by patatas bravas, the crispy potatoes typically served with a spicy sauce and aioli in tapas bars all across Spain. Here, there are potatoes, of course, but they’re cut into matchsticks and browned on a sheet pan; and there’s a garlic mayonnaise for dipping. (Make real-deal aioli if you have a few minutes to spare.) But instead of the traditional smoky, brick-red sauce, similar seasonings are smeared onto chicken before roasting: a mix of lemon, garlic, rosemary, smoked paprika and red-pepper flakes. Using bone-in parts keeps the white meat juicy, while the skin gets crisp and some of the schmaltz glosses the fries.
By: Ali Slagle
Yield: 2 to 3 servings
Total time: 45 minutes
- 1/2 cup mayonnaise
- 1 tablespoon lemon zest (from 1 large lemon)
- 3 garlic cloves, grated
- Kosher salt (Diamond Crystal) and black pepper
- 1 tablespoon smoked paprika
- 1 teaspoon chopped rosemary leaves (or 1/2 teaspoon dried rosemary)
- 1/2 teaspoon red-pepper flakes
- 2 large bone-in, skin-on chicken breasts (1 1/2 to 2 pounds total), patted dry
- 1 large russet potato (about 1 pound), scrubbed
- 1 tablespoon olive oil
- 1 tablespoon lemon juice
1. Heat the oven to 425 degrees, and place a sheet pan on the oven’s lowest rack to heat. In a liquid measuring cup or small bowl, stir together the mayonnaise, lemon zest and garlic. Season with salt and pepper.
2. Transfer half of the mayonnaise mixture (about 1/4 cup) to a medium bowl. Stir in the smoked paprika, rosemary, red-pepper flakes and 1/2 teaspoon black pepper. Season the chicken all over with 1 1/2 teaspoons salt. Add the chicken to the bowl of paprika-mayonnaise, and rub it all over the chicken. Set aside.
3. Halve the potato crosswise (no need to peel), then cut it into 1/4-inch-thick fries. Right on the cutting board, drizzle with the olive oil, and season with salt and pepper. Toss to coat.
4. Place the chicken breasts skin side down on the heated sheet pan, then scatter the potatoes around the chicken in a single layer. Roast on the bottom rack for 15 minutes, then flip the chicken so the skin side is up. (No need to turn the potatoes.) Roast for another 10 to 15 minutes, until the fries are browned underneath and the chicken registers 155 degrees when an instant-read thermometer is inserted in the thickest part. (The temperature will rise as the meat rests.) Let the chicken rest for at least 5 minutes, then cut the chicken meat from the bones and slice. Stir the lemon juice into the remaining mayonnaise mixture. Eat the chicken with the fries and a puddle of the lemon-garlic mayo for dipping.
2. Caramelized Cabbage and Walnut Pasta
A single, modest cabbage goes a long way in this recipe. Green cabbage (though you could also use Savoy) becomes jammy and sweet when cooked with aromatic leeks and garlic for 15 minutes, a practically effortless concoction to toss with pasta. Cumin seeds add just the right amount of earthiness along with a subtle citrus tone; add more if you want a pronounced flavor, or substitute with fennel seeds or caraway. The walnuts balance out the sweetness of the cabbage and leeks, and introduce a slight bitterness and crunch. Store-bought roasted walnuts are a time saver here, but if you want them extra dark and crispy, toast them for 6 to 8 minutes in a 325-degree oven until deeply golden. If you have chives or scallions on hand, toss these in at the end for a lively finish.
By: Hetty McKinnon
Yield: 4 servings
Total time: 25 minutes
- 1/4 cup olive oil
- 3 tablespoon unsalted butter
- 2 teaspoon cumin seeds
- 2 leeks, white and tender green parts, thinly sliced into rings
- 4 garlic cloves, finely chopped
- 2 pounds finely sliced green cabbage
- Kosher salt (Diamond Crystal)
- 1 pound spaghetti or other long pasta
- 4 ounces pecorino cheese, grated, plus more for serving
- 2 to 3 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper, plus more as needed
- 3 to 4 tablespoons lemon juice (from 1 large lemon)
- 1 to 1 1/2 cups toasted walnuts, roughly chopped
- Handful of chopped chives (optional)
1. Heat a large Dutch oven or pot over medium. Add the olive oil and butter. When the butter has melted, add cumin seeds and bloom for 15 seconds, then add the leeks, garlic, cabbage and 2 teaspoons salt, and stir for 3 to 4 minutes until wilted. Cover, reduce heat to medium-low and cook for 10 minutes without stirring. Check every few minutes to make sure the bottom is not burning. If needed, give it a stir.
2. After 10 minutes, remove the lid from the cabbage and stir. Cover and cook for another 4 to 5 minutes, until it is supersweet and tender. Taste and season with kosher salt.
3. Meanwhile, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the spaghetti and cook according to package instructions. When the pasta is ready, do not drain, but use tongs to drag the pasta out of its cooking water and straight into the pot with the cabbage. Add about 1 cup of pasta cooking water, along with the pecorino and the black pepper. Toss well to combine.
4. Add lemon juice. Taste, adjusting seasonings with more salt, pepper or lemon, if needed. To serve, scatter with walnuts and finish with more pecorino and chopped chives, if using.
3. Miso and Seaweed Ramen With Egg
This weeknight ramen features a soothing broth that comes together in just 30 minutes with the help of rich seaweed and sweet-salty miso. Dried wakame is a dark green, edible seaweed with a delicately sweet flavor; once cooked, it softens and transforms into a tender, smooth and silky texture. Caramelizing the miso with earthy shiitake mushrooms adds extra depth and body to the meatless broth. A nutty, scallion-flecked sesame-ginger sauce adds brightness and a fresh crunch to the cozy soup.
By: Kay Chun
Yield: 4 servings
Total time: 30 minutes
- 1/4 cup neutral oil, such as safflower or canola
- 4 ounces shiitake mushrooms, stemmed and thinly sliced
- 3/4 cup finely chopped scallions, plus more for garnish
- Salt and black pepper
- 1 tablespoon minced garlic
- 1/3 cup white miso
- 2 tablespoons low-sodium soy sauce
- 1/4 cup dried ready-cut wakame seaweed
- 1 pound fresh ramen noodles (see Tip below)
- 4 large eggs
- 2 tablespoons toasted sesame oil
- 2 tablespoons toasted sesame seeds
- 2 teaspoons grated fresh ginger
1. In a large Dutch oven or heavy-bottomed pot, heat 2 tablespoons of neutral oil over medium. Add mushrooms and 1/4 cup of the scallions, and season with salt and pepper. Cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 3 minutes. Add garlic and stir until fragrant, 30 seconds. Add miso and soy sauce, and cook over medium-low, stirring constantly, until the mushrooms have absorbed the liquid and the miso is caramelized and deep golden brown, about 2 minutes.
2. Add 8 cups of water and the seaweed, and bring to a boil over high heat, stirring to dissolve the miso and lift up any browned bits on the bottom of the pot. Partly cover, reduce heat to medium and simmer until mushrooms and seaweed are tender and broth is slightly reduced, about 15 minutes. Season to taste with salt.
3. Meanwhile, bring a large saucepan of water to a boil, and cook noodles according to package instructions. Drain and immediately divide among 4 bowls.
4. Reduce heat to medium-low and crack the eggs into the pot with the broth, leaving some space in between the eggs. Cover and poach until whites are just set and yolks are still runny, about 3 minutes.
5. As the eggs cook, combine the remaining 1/2 cup scallions, remaining 2 tablespoons neutral oil, sesame oil, sesame seeds and ginger in a small bowl, and season with salt. Mix well.
6. Divide the broth and eggs among the bowls. Drizzle each with some of the sesame-ginger sauce, and serve warm.
This recipe can also be prepared using dried instant ramen noodles; you’ll want 4 (3.5-ounce) packages. Discard the spice packets or reserve for another use, then follow the package cooking instructions for Step 3.
4. Jerk Chicken Meatballs With Barbecue-Pineapple Glaze
This recipe takes the deep flavor of jerk chicken and turns it into easy meatballs. The jerk seasoning paste does double duty here, adding both spices and moisture, so don’t reach for dry jerk seasoning. Whether served alone as an appetizer, over rice or even tucked in a sandwich, these meatballs are perfectly salty, sweet and spicy.
By: Millie Peartree
Yield: 4 servings
Total time: 30 minutes
For the meatballs:
- Neutral oil
- 1 pound ground chicken or turkey
- 1 small yellow or red onion, finely diced
- 1 egg, beaten
- 1/4 cup breadcrumbs
- 2 tablespoons Jamaican jerk seasoning paste, such as Grace or Walkerswood
- 1 tablespoon chopped fresh parsley or cilantro leaves
- 1 teaspoon garlic powder
- 1/4 teaspoon kosher salt
- 1/4 teaspoon black pepper
For the glaze:
- 1 cup pineapple juice
- 1/2 packed cup light or dark brown sugar
- 1/4 cup ketchup
- 2 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce
- 1 small garlic clove, minced
- 1/2 teaspoon onion powder
- Pinch of red-pepper flakes
- Pinch of kosher salt, plus more to taste
- 1 tablespoon cornstarch
- White rice, for serving
1. Heat oven to 375 degrees. Line a sheet pan with aluminum foil and very lightly coat it with oil.
2. Prepare the meatballs: In a medium bowl, combine the chicken, onion, egg, breadcrumbs, jerk seasoning paste, parsley, garlic powder, salt and pepper. Mix thoroughly to combine, being careful not to overwork the meat. Using lightly wet hands, form the mixture into 12 meatballs, each a bit larger than a golf ball, and space them out on the prepared pan. Bake until golden brown, about 15 minutes. (Alternatively, you can fry them in a nonstick pan coated in oil over medium heat for about 4 to 5 minutes per side.)
3. While the meatballs cook, prepare the glaze: Whisk the pineapple juice, brown sugar, ketchup, Worcestershire sauce, garlic, onion powder, red-pepper flakes and salt together in a medium pot over medium-high heat. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat to medium-low. Simmer until it reduces enough to coat the back of a spoon, about 10 to 15 minutes.
4. In a small bowl, mix together the cornstarch with 1 tablespoon water. Slowly whisk into the sauce, increase the heat to medium and stir until you reach the desired consistency. (Sauce should look like a thicker gravy.) Taste and adjust seasoning as needed.
5. Add the meatballs to the sauce and stir until coated. Cook over medium-low heat for 2 minutes, until the meatballs are evenly glazed and deepen slightly in color. Serve hot on their own or over rice.
5. Turkey Chili
You might not think of chili as an easy weeknight dish, but this turkey version from Pierre Franey will change your mind. It’s fabulous, it’s healthy and it can be ready in about a half-hour. A combination of dark and white meat really adds depth and richness of flavor, so try to find a mix, but all white meat (or a mixture of ground beef and turkey) will yield a stellar batch too.
By: Pierre Franey
Yield: 6 servings or more
Total time: 35 minutes
- 1 tablespoon olive oil
- 2 pounds ground turkey, white and dark combined
- 2 cups coarsely chopped onions
- 2 tablespoons chopped garlic
- 1 large sweet red pepper, cored, deveined and coarsely chopped
- 1 cup chopped celery
- 1 jalapeno pepper, cored, deveined and finely chopped
- 1 tablespoon fresh oregano, chopped, or 1 tablespoon, dried
- 2 bay leaves
- 3 tablespoons chili powder
- 2 teaspoons ground cumin
- 3 cups canned diced tomatoes
- 2 cups chicken broth, fresh or canned
- Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
- 2 15-ounce cans of red kidney beans, drained
- 2 cups shredded cheddar cheese
- 1 cup sour cream (optional)
- Sliced lime for garnish (optional)
1. Heat the oil over high heat in a large heavy pot and add the turkey meat. Cook until lightly browned, about 5 minutes, chopping down and stirring with the side of a heavy kitchen spoon to break up any lumps.
2. Add the onions, garlic, sweet pepper, celery, jalapeno pepper, oregano, bay leaves, chili powder and cumin. Stir to blend well. Cook for 5 minutes.
3. Add the tomatoes, chicken broth, salt and pepper. Bring to a boil, reduce heat and simmer, stirring occasionally, for 15 minutes.
4. Add the drained beans and cook, stirring occasionally, for 10 minutes longer. Serve in bowls with cheddar cheese, and sour cream and lime wedges, if desired.
This article originally appeared in The New York Times.
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