Can The Fallen Angels Rise Again?

Victoria’s Secret, as soon as a defining power within the trend trade, made a extremely anticipated return to the runway with its rebranded Victoria’s Secret Trend Present. The enduring lingerie model canceled its present in 2018 after plummeting rankings and sharp criticism for being out of contact, with many calling the model sexist, outdated, and missing in variety. Earlier than the present’s cancellation, I had already warned of the model’s waning relevance within the media.

After a six-year hiatus, Victoria’s Secret promised inclusivity, showcasing plus-size fashions like Ashley Graham, Moroccan and Egyptian descent mannequin Imaan Hammam, transgender fashions akin to Valentina Sampaio, and icons like Tyra Banks, Kate Moss, and Gigi Hadid. But, regardless of these efforts, the present surprisingly caught to the identical visible language, type, and sensibility that had as soon as introduced the model to its knees.

What have been they considering?

Certain, the runway was extra various, that includes fashions of various physique varieties from Devyn Garcia to Blesnya Minher—however at this level, how might it not be? Something much less would have been inexcusable.

Regardless of glitzy musical performances from Cher, Tyla, and Lisa (not an enormous shift from stars like Katy Perry in earlier years), and the grateful removing of the outdated Fantasy Bra, the model did not push boundaries—both in actuality or fantasy—leaving many unimpressed.

So, what can we take away from this model revival that, in my opinion, clearly missed the mark? And, extra importantly, what can leaders in branding—and past—be taught to keep away from comparable errors?

1. Inclusion Isn’t a Development—It’s a Transformation

Whereas it was good to see Victoria’s Secret embrace extra various fashions, like Imaan Hammam and Anok Yai, the core message of the present remained largely unchanged. The return of longtime fashions like Adriana Lima, Alessandra Ambrosio, and Candice Swanepoel introduced again the identical outdated glamour—which was nice to see—however there was no additional, actual reimagining of the model.

For manufacturers like Victoria’s Secret, inclusion should be greater than only a runway characteristic—it must be embedded in each facet of the corporate, from product design and advertising and marketing to firm tradition and management. Prolonged sizes, plus-size fashions, and transgender illustration should be a part of the model’s DNA, not only a necessity for a single occasion, and that should be expressed in probably the most genuine manner. And whereas Victoria’s Secret has made some strides on this entrance, underneath enterprise duress, when manufacturers deal with variety as an obligation quite than a dedication, they fail to make a long-lasting affect, and most significantly, it reveals.

2. Personal Your Historical past to Form Your Future

Victoria’s Secret’s previous is tied to unrealistic beliefs of magnificence—most famously represented by their large angel wings and hypersexualized runway reveals. I consider the model missed a beneficial alternative to not solely reclaim but additionally to reimagine its narrative. Victoria’s Secret might have executed this in certainly one of some ways. For instance, they may have used humor—turning their legacy on its head and exhibiting they don’t take themselves too significantly. Lingerie, in spite of everything, is supposed to be enjoyable, isn’t it?

In line with analysis from Oracle, 90% of shoppers usually tend to bear in mind a humorous advert, and 72% would select a model with a humorousness over its rivals. Comparable findings have been produced by Kantar and System1. Think about Victoria’s Secret including a playful second, like fashions referencing their previous lives as “angels” with humor and mock, embracing a daring rebrand. However as a substitute, they caught to the identical components, leaving me—and sure many others—skeptical about their authenticity.

Leaders ought to acknowledge that humor can disarm criticism and assist rebuild belief. Acknowledging previous errors and even making enjoyable of them might have helped Victoria’s Secret join extra deeply with their viewers and present their human and extra weak facet. The present appeared to nonetheless be striving for a great of perfection—-which savvy audiences acknowledge now not exists. It’s your imperfections that make you excellent.

3. Enjoying Catch-Up Isn’t Sufficient—You Should Lead

Within the aggressive trend trade, merely catching up with developments isn’t sufficient. Victoria’s Secret’s rebrand might have taken a web page out of the success of manufacturers like Savage X Fenty, which revolutionized the trade with inclusivity, daring imagery, and a recent tackle lingerie and wonder.

Whereas it was thrilling to see a trend icon like Gigi Hadid kick off the present, and fashions like Vittoria Ceretti stroll the runway, the general occasion lacked the innovation wanted to face out. Victoria’s Secret had the chance to steer with recent, disruptive concepts, however as a substitute, they adopted the well-established variety pattern with out pushing the boundaries.

Innovation is important for manufacturers to remain related. In line with a examine from BCG, 79% of firms now rank innovation amongst their high three priorities—a 15-point improve since 2009—and 66% plan to extend their innovation spending, with 42% aiming for greater than a ten% improve. Manufacturers like Victoria’s Secret can’t simply meet up with the competitors—they should be daring sufficient to set new developments and redefine what lingerie means for right this moment’s shoppers.

4. Audiences Demand Substance, Not Symbolism

Regardless of the inclusion of curvy girls, transgender fashions, and prolonged sizes, the general tone of the Victoria’s Secret Trend Present felt extra symbolic to me quite than substantive. Certain, there have been most likely going to be some feathered angel wings this time, and fortunately the outdated diamond-encrusted Fantasy Bra was nowhere in sight, however the present nonetheless relied on the identical pageantry and spectacle of a Miss World that felt out of step with right this moment’s sensibilities.

In my e book The Kim Kardashian Precept, I emphasize the significance of authenticity. Audiences right this moment are savvier than ever, they usually can simply spot when manufacturers prioritize surface-level gestures over significant change. A major 81% of shoppers have to belief a model earlier than making a purchase order, and 86% consider that authenticity is essential for supporting a model.

Victoria’s Secret’s artistic director might have up to date some components of the present, however the reliance on previous symbols—like beaded heart-shaped wings—made it clear that the model continues to be holding onto its problematic previous and hasn’t totally moved on.

5. Belief Is Earned Via Consistency, Not Grand Gestures

Victoria’s Secret’s return to the runway felt extra like a lower than grand gesture than a sustained effort to rebuild belief. Belief isn’t earned in a single day. Even when Victoria’s Secret had hit all the suitable notes with this trend present, they should comply with up with constant actions that reinforce their dedication to inclusivity.

In 2021, I wrote about how Victoria’s Secret’s variety marketing campaign, Victoria’s Secret Collective, was lifeless on arrival, because the model appeared to swap one magnificence best for an additional. That may not be the definition of inclusion. The Victoria’s Secret Trend Present comeback this yr feels equally misaligned. To regain credibility, Victoria’s Secret should transcend the runway and concentrate on long-term actions that mirror a real cultural transformation—from the best way they market their collections to how they convey with their viewers all year long.

Backside Line: The Runway to Redemption Is Paved with Motion

It was clear to see how Victoria’s Secret Trend Present made an try to persuade its viewers that the model had advanced—however is it sufficient to reverse six years of declining gross sales? I doubt it. The runway to redemption is an extended one, and it requires greater than a rebranded runway present to win again belief.

To really reclaim their place out there, Victoria’s Secret should transfer past symbolic gestures like their beloved angel wings and concentrate on actual, significant change that resonates with right this moment’s shoppers. A worldwide examine by Kantar reveals that 75% of shoppers say a model’s variety and inclusion repute influences their buy choices. Manufacturers like Victoria’s Secret should acknowledge that buyers need authenticity, not efficiency.

I haven’t written off Victoria’s Secret simply but. And I do consider that in the event that they personal their previous, embrace daring innovation, and persistently present up with actual values, they will nonetheless flip the web page and join with right this moment’s extra acutely aware shoppers.

Named Esquire’s Influencer Of The 12 months, Jeetendr Sehdev is a media persona, worldwide speaker and the creator of the New York Occasions bestselling sensation, The Kim Kardashian Precept: Why Shameless Sells (and How you can Do It Proper.)